Discover Khiva: A Journey Back in Time to Uzbekistan's Past

Khiva, or Xiva, is a small city with a population of around 115,000, located in the desert of Uzbekistan. It leaves a lasting impression on travelers with its historic old town, Itchan Kala. This UNESCO World Heritage Site stood out the most during our trip, with its ancient charm and tranquil beauty. Due to its remote location in the west of Uzbekistan, it remains less crowded by tourists compared to other cities. Surrounded by a well-preserved city wall, the old town offers breathtaking views of its blue domes, minarets, and madrasas, which transport visitors back in time. Among the must-see sights are the Mohammed Amin Khan Madrasa and the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum.

Once an important caravan stop, Khiva still retains its mystical allure as a desert city. It blends Persian and Turkish influences, visible in its bazaars and handicraft stores, where you’ll find local art such as carpets, jewelry, and ceramics—each piece reflecting the deep-rooted culture of the city.

The quiet charm of Khiva can be best enjoyed with an evening stroll along the city walls or through the winding alleyways. Unlike the larger cities in Uzbekistan, Khiva feels like a journey through time, as if retracing the steps of ancient caravans and traders.

Tip: Since nearly all the city’s highlights are located in the old town, it’s a good idea to book accommodation there or nearby. This will allow you to easily explore the old town on foot.

Good to know: Entry to the old town requires a city ticket, which you can purchase at the city gates. The ticket, valid for two days, costs 200,000 som (approx. €15). It grants access to most museums and attractions in the old town, though some sites like the Watchtower, the Islom Hoja Minaret, and the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum charge an additional fee.

Free walking tour: For a deeper understanding of Khiva and its highlights, consider joining a free walking tour. Small groups are guided through key sights in about 2–3 hours. Afterward, you’ll have ample time to explore your favorite spots on your own.

The Highlights of Khiva

Itchan Kala

The heart of Khiva, this ancient walled city is home to numerous historical sites. Wandering through its narrow streets, surrounded by imposing walls and beautifully adorned buildings, feels like stepping back in time. The vibrant colors of the tiles glimmering in the sun create an unmistakable backdrop for your exploration.

Gates of the Old Town

The impressive gates that mark the entrance to Itchan Kala are the perfect introduction to the city. The main gate, Ata-Darwaza, stands out with its ornate carvings and colorful tiles, setting the tone for your adventure in one of Central Asia’s best-preserved historical districts.

Harem in the Tash Hauli Palace

The Tash Hauli Palace or “Toshhovli Palace” was built in the 1830s. The complex consists of three separate parts. The residential complex and harem are located in the northern half, the area for receiving the khan’s guests in the south-east and the courtyard for other receptions and court hearings in the south-west. All parts of the palace are connected by a labyrinth of corridors.

The 19th-century palace of the Khan of Khiva is an architectural masterpiece. Its beautiful courtyards and intricately decorated rooms offer a glimpse into the life of the city’s former rulers.

Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa

As the largest medrese in Khiva, this site is a highlight of the city. Its grand façade and spacious inner courtyard evoke the past, where students from various regions gathered to learn and exchange ideas.

Kalta Minor Minaret

This striking minaret, with its brilliant blue tiles, catches the eye. Though it was originally meant to be taller, its incomplete construction adds to the city’s unique charm. Built in the 19th century, it remains one of Khiva’s most recognizable landmarks.

Juma Mosque

Known for its 200+ wooden columns, the Juma Mosque is not just a place of worship but also a symbol of Khiva’s religious tolerance. The peaceful atmosphere here makes it a great spot to take in the spiritual energy of this historic site

Islam Khodja Minaret and Madrasa (watchtower)

This elegant structure stands out with its slender form and offers a fantastic view of the city. Entrance to the minaret costs an additional 15,000 som (approx. €1.10).

Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum

This mausoleum, dedicated to the legendary local hero Pahlavan Mahmud, is a must-see for history enthusiasts.

Matpana Baya Madrassah (Museum of Scholars)

The Museum of Scholars, housed in the Matpana Baya Madrassah, offers an intriguing insight into the intellectual history of Khiva. Constructed in the early 1900s, the museum highlights the region’s notable achievements in literature, science, and philosophy. It provides visitors with an opportunity to explore the lives and contributions of Khiva’s intellectuals, all while admiring the building’s impressive architecture. The tranquil setting enhances the experience, allowing one to fully appreciate Khiva’s scholarly legacy.

The Ark (Fortress)

Once a palace and administrative center, the Ark Fortress now hosts a small museum, providing insight into Khiva’s royal past.

Samsa at the Bazaar

Don’t miss out on trying samsas—delicious meat-filled dumplings baked in stone ovens. They’re a popular street food and a treat you won’t forget!

City Wall

The ancient city wall encircles the entire old town. From the northern gate (Bakcha Darvoza), you can walk along the wall and enjoy a unique perspective of the city.

Local Markets and Handicrafts

Khiva’s markets are a great place to experience local culture. You’ll find handcrafted carpets, ceramics, jewelry, and textiles—perfect souvenirs or a chance to engage with local artisans.

Small Cafés and Teahouses

Take a break at one of Khiva’s charming cafés or teahouses, where you can try traditional Uzbek pilaf (plov) or sip freshly brewed tea. Pilaf, made with rice, carrots, onions, and meat (often lamb or chicken), is not only a staple dish but also a symbol of Uzbek hospitality.

Conclusion: Khiva – An Unforgettable Travel Destination

Khiva is more than just a historical gem of Uzbekistan; it’s a place that will captivate your soul. Walking through the narrow streets of Itchan Kala, surrounded by magnificent walls and intricately decorated buildings, you’ll feel like you’re stepping back in time. The stunning architecture—from the towering Kalta Minor Minaret to the ornate madrasas—tells the story of a rich past and invites you to explore the city’s fascinating traditions. For those seeking authentic experiences, Khiva offers plenty of opportunities to stray off the beaten path and discover its hidden treasures.

Getting to and Around Khiva

Khiva is accessible by plane, train, or bus, although its location in western Uzbekistan means the journey might take a bit longer. Whether traveling from Tashkent, Bukhara, or other parts of the country, the journey itself adds to the adventure.

By Plane

The nearest airport to Khiva is Urgench, about 35 kilometers away. Regular flights connect Urgench with Tashkent and other major cities. From there, you can take a taxi or a minibus (marshrutka) to reach the old town.

By Train

You can also take a train from Tashkent to Urgench, which offers a scenic ride through picturesque landscapes and rural villages. From Urgench, it’s a short taxi or minibus ride to Khiva. Check out our full guide here.

Shared Cabs

Shared cabs are a popular and affordable way to travel to Khiva from other cities. While they offer less privacy, they are a convenient option for budget-conscious travelers. Check out our experiences traveling from Bukhara to Khiva by shared cab for more details.

Traveling by shared taxi

The quickest and easiest way to travel from Bukhara to Khiva is by shared cab. These are a very popular means of transportation in Uzbekistan, as they are both cheap and relatively comfortable. The journey takes around 5 hours and 15 minutes, depending on traffic conditions and the number of stops.

Step 1: Meeting point in Bukhara

In Bukhara, you need to go to Kharvan Bazaar, one of the markets just outside the city center. The meeting point for the shared cabs is directly opposite the Mohitobon Hotel. It is a busy place where cabs depart regularly in different directions.

Step 2: Shared taxi

The shared cabs from Bukhara to Khiva are usually normal cars that can accommodate 4 passengers. The vehicles are surprisingly comfortable, so you can expect a pleasant ride even if you are “only” sitting in the car with other travelers.

Step 3: Negotiating the price
In Uzbekistan, it is customary to negotiate the price of shared cabs before departure. The starting price for a trip from Bukhara to Khiva is usually around 250,000 som (approx. 18.65€) per person. If you negotiate skillfully, you can bring this price down to around 200,000 som (approx. 15€) per person, which is a fair amount for the route. There are reports that the price is also possible for 10-12 USD, but don’t be surprised if it’s more expensive in practice.

Step 4: Waiting for departure

The shared cabs only depart when all seats are occupied. So you may have to wait a while until the car is full. In our case, we only waited 20 minutes until another passenger arrived. As soon as all the seats are occupied, the ride starts.

Step 5: Journey

The journey from Bukhara to Khiva takes around 5 hours and 15 minutes. During the drive, you will cross the desert landscape of Uzbekistan, which can be quite impressive. The roads are mostly good.

Step 6: Comfort during the ride

When you are in the car with several people, it is common for each passenger to share their seat. In our case, we wanted to make sure that the middle seat on the back seat remained free, which we were able to organize for two people for an extra charge of 550,000 Som (approx. 41€). The price is then a little higher, but you travel a little more comfortably.

Step 7: Arrival in Khiva

The shared cab will take you directly to the gate of Khiva’s old town, which is super convenient as you no longer have to walk long distances to get to the old town. You get off directly at one of the main entrances to one of the most beautiful historic districts in Uzbekistan.

Tips for traveling from Bukhara to Khiva

– Bargaining is important: Remember that in Uzbekistan there is still a lot of bargaining going on, especially when it comes to transportation prices. So don’t be surprised if you have to haggle a bit over the price.

– Luggage: As the shared cabs are usually relatively small, you should make sure that your luggage is not too big, as space is limited.

– Tickets: Payment for the shared cab is made directly to the driver, so make sure you have enough Som in cash with you.

– Flexibility: Be flexible when it comes to departure times. The shared cabs often leave when they are full and the exact departure time can vary.

Conclusion

Traveling from Bukhara to Khiva by shared cab is a practical, cheap and relatively comfortable way to connect these two fascinating cities. The journey doesn’t take long and gives you an insight into the rural area of Uzbekistan. Remember to negotiate the price in advance and be prepared for a relaxed yet exciting journey. If you remain flexible and open-minded, you are sure to have a pleasant ride and soon arrive in the fairytale old town of Khiva.